Anise hyssop. (Agastache foeniculum) Pollinators love the purple flowers, particularly bumble bees. A good self seeder. The leaves are also used for teas. Likes sunny areas, but will do well in partial shade too.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) starter plant. Great easy perennial native for late summer/ fall pollinators. Despite it’s name, it produces no smell.
Flower: Purple
Bloom time: August, September, October
Zone: 3-8
Height:2-3ft
Sun :Full Partial
Soil: Medium-medium dry
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.

Black cherry starter tree (prunus serotina) Common eastern North American tree that can get 80ft plus. Prized for its wood, has clusters of white flowers in spring which turn to small clusters of dark colored little cherries. The bark is rather unique too. We like it because multiple butterfly and moths prefer it as a hostplant including the red spotted purple, eastern tiger swallowtail, promethea moth, and cecropia moth.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.

Black chokeberry (aronia melanocarpa) starter shrub. An adaptable shrub that gets to around 8ft. Grows in a variety of conditions. Berries are quite tart but can be used for cooking, jellies, jams. Pretty reddish fall color. I have found eastern tiger swallowtail caterpillars on them, but doesn’t appear to be one of their primary hosts.
These are plants that are up and growing for the season. The picture taken of the plant is a pot size indicator. They can be at various stages of growth through the season. If purchased early in the season they may be just coming up. Late in the season, they might showing signs of upcoming dormancy. Our plants have good roots which is the most important part for a successful native plant pollinator/ butterfly garden!
All of our plants are grown in biodegradable fabric pots. The containers are around 4″x4 1/2″ Generally, I like to take them off and compost them, but if you leave them on, I like to rip the sides or score them with a knife for easier root penetration.
Tips for growing:
As our plants are intended for pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything. Native plants don’t need any fertilizer, but if you want to lightly use an organic fertilizer, it won’t hurt.
The best place for our plants is in the ground. Do not grow in black plastic nursery pots “till they get bigger” Black plastic pots do not provide good aeration, get very hot, and will cause root circling and poor growth. Although being small, native plants often grow extensive root systems, often more than the visible foliage. When planted in the ground they will have the best chance to work on their roots.
When it comes to native perennials, roots are the most important part. While foliage can be an indicator of good growth, you want to give these plants the best chance for root growth. Don’t worry about flowering, it will come. Encourage roots!
We take care in packing our plants for shipping, but plants occasionally get bent, broken stems in transit. This can appear disappointing, but they have good roots and will quickly recover.
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.

Blue flag iris starter plant (Iris virginica) Native iris usually found on lake, pond, and stream edges. Even though it is found in wetlands in the wild, it will also grow in medium soils that don’t dry out. Excellent rain garden plant. Blue/ purple flowers in midsummer with typical iris shape.
These are plants that are up and growing for the season. The picture taken of the plant is a pot size indicator. They can be at various stages of growth through the season. If purchased early in the season they may be just coming up. Late in the season, they might showing signs of upcoming dormancy. Our plants have good roots which is the most important part for a successful native plant pollinator/ butterfly garden!
All of our plants are grown in biodegradable fabric pots. The containers are around 4″x4 1/2″ Generally, I like to take them off and compost them, but if you leave them on, I like to rip the sides or score them with a knife for easier root penetration.
Tips for growing:
As our plants are intended for pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything. Native plants don’t need any fertilizer, but if you want to lightly use an organic fertilizer, it won’t hurt.
The best place for our plants is in the ground. Do not grow in black plastic nursery pots “till they get bigger” Black plastic pots do not provide good aeration, get very hot, and will cause root circling and poor growth. Although being small, native plants often grow extensive root systems, often more than the visible foliage. When planted in the ground they will have the best chance to work on their roots.
When it comes to native perennials, roots are the most important part. While foliage can be an indicator of good growth, you want to give these plants the best chance for root growth. Don’t worry about flowering, it will come. Encourage roots!
We take care in packing our plants for shipping, but plants occasionally get bent, broken stems in transit. This can appear disappointing, but they have good roots and will quickly recover.
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.

Bottle gentian starter plant (Gentiana andrewsii). A beautiful unique plant for medium to moist sunny to partly sunny locations gets around 2 to 2 1/2 ft tall. Slow growing, but easy once established. Unique blue flowers that bloom in late summer/ early fall.
These are one year old plants that are up and growing for the 2024 season. The picture taken of the plant is a pot size indicator. They can be at various stages of growth through the season. If purchased early in the season they may be just coming up. In mid-season we may have cut them back for shipping purposes, Late in the season, they might showing signs of upcoming dormancy. Our plants have good roots which is the most important part for a successful native plant pollinator/ butterfly garden!
All of our plants are grown in biodegradable fabric pots. The containers are around 4″x4 1/2″ May be planted in the pot or removed . Generally, I like to take them off and compost them, but if you leave them on, I like to rip the sides or score them with a knife for easier root penetration.
Tips for growing:
As our plants are intended for pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything. Native plants don’t need any fertilizer, but if you want to lightly use an organic fertilizer, it won’t hurt.
The best place for our plants is in the ground. Do not grow in black plastic nursery pots “till they get bigger” Black plastic pots do not provide good aeration, get very hot, and will cause root circling and poor growth. Although being small, native plants often grow extensive root systems, often more than the visible foliage. When planted in the ground they will have the best chance to work on their roots.
When it comes to native perennials, roots are the most important part. While foliage can be an indicator of good growth, you want to give these plants the best chance for root growth. Don’t worry about flowering, it will come. Encourage roots!
We take care in packing our plants for shipping, but plants ocassionally get bent, broken stems in transit. This can appear disappointing, but they have good roots and will quickly recover.

Bottlebrush grass (Elymus hystrix) starter plant. A grass for shade. Gets about 3 ft with unique heads hence it’s name. Likes a medium to medium/ dry shady to partially sunny location.
These are plants that are up and growing for the season. The picture taken of the plant is a pot size indicator. They can be at various stages of growth through the season. If purchased early in the season they may be just coming up. Late in the season, they might showing signs of upcoming dormancy. Our plants have good roots which is the most important part for a successful native plant pollinator/ butterfly garden!
All of our plants are grown in biodegradable fabric pots. The containers are around 4″x4 1/2″ Generally, I like to take them off and compost them, but if you leave them on, I like to rip the sides or score them with a knife for easier root penetration.
Tips for growing:
As our plants are intended for pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything. Native plants don’t need any fertilizer, but if you want to lightly use an organic fertilizer, it won’t hurt.
The best place for our plants is in the ground. Do not grow in black plastic nursery pots “till they get bigger” Black plastic pots do not provide good aeration, get very hot, and will cause root circling and poor growth. Although being small, native plants often grow extensive root systems, often more than the visible foliage. When planted in the ground they will have the best chance to work on their roots.
When it comes to native perennials, roots are the most important part. While foliage can be an indicator of good growth, you want to give these plants the best chance for root growth. Don’t worry about flowering, it will come. Encourage roots!
We take care in packing our plants for shipping, but plants occasionally get bent, broken stems in transit. This can appear disappointing, but they have good roots and will quickly recover.
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.

Brown eyed susan starter plant (Rudbeckia triloba) Prairie sun loving plant. Gets taller than a black eyed susan (5ft) with a more branched look with more flowers. A short lived perennial, but a good self seeder.
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
Brown fox sedge (Carex vulpinoidea) starter plant. This is an easy sedge to grow and will happily accept most soil types in a sunny to partially shady area. Grows to about 3ft tall. Gets it’s name from it’s seed head that is said to look like a foxes tail.
Grows during the cooler parts of the year in the spring and fall
Dormant plant
These plants have gone dormant, but are ready to plant for the upcoming season. They have good roots but no foliage remaining.
Dormant plant tips
• Moisture doesn’t dry up as fast in the winter as the summer, but if we go through prolonged dry spells, don’t forget to water. Just because they are not visibly growing doesn’t mean the can dry out.
• As long as the ground is workable (not frozen), we suggest planting in the ground soon after you receive them. Our plants are kept outside and are winter hardy. Even without foliage they will keep growing roots. If you are unable to plant them right away, we suggest placing them in heavy duty cardboard boxes in a protected location outside. Propping them up with newspaper or leaf litter. Up against a building works great. Grocers or warehouse stores often have old banana/ vegetable boxes available and they work great!
• Do not transfer them to old black plastic pots, They have inconsistent temperatures and do not provide aeration to the plant. Transferring our plants to them will often cause root shock and poor growth.
• Don’t try to “wake them up” early in a greenhouse or indoors. We keep our plants outside and they have natural schedules.
• Some natives like blue lobelia, cardinal flower, monkey flower, tall bell flower, and sneezeweed will keep low foliage all winter, but won’t start actively growing again till spring. We suggest covering these with pine needles, leaf litter, or a frost blanket to protect them from heavy freezes.
• Native plants can come back up up at different times. Some species will be up in late winter (such easterners and nodding onion) while others wait until the ground has warmed in mid spring (such as legumes and passionflower). Don’t fret if some plants are up but yours have not yet.
• As all of our plants are intended for butterfly/ pollinator gardens, they have not been treated with anything.
• We take care when shipping our plants, but if you experience roughed up looking plants due to postal transit, do not worry. Our plants have good roots which is the most important thing and should start sending out new growth after planting.
• Most of our plants are native and some can be slow growing, go dormant early in their first year or two, or don’t flower right away. “First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap!”
• Any questions, feel free to contact us. We want this to be an enjoyable experience.
